Most people selling silver have no idea what it is worth
That is not their fault. They inherited a box of flatware and a few coins, and the first offer they get is the only number they have to judge it against. This site exists to give you a second number.
Start where you are
- You do not know what it is. Sterling, plate, or coin silver - the tests are simple and you can do them at home.
- You know what it is. Work out the melt value, and learn when a piece is worth more intact than melted.
- You are ready to sell. What each kind of buyer pays, and the questions that separate a fair offer from a bad one.

What this site is
I ran an online precious metals buying business for eighteen years. People mailed me their silver and I sent them a check. I saw what arrived, what it was really worth, and how often the person sending it had been quoted something insulting somewhere else first.
I am not buying any more. That is precisely why I can write this. Nothing here is trying to get your metal into an envelope addressed to me, because there is no envelope. What follows is what I would tell a friend who called and said they had found a canteen of grandmother's cutlery in the loft.
What you have
Sterling is not plate, plate is not worth melting, and a coin can be worth many times its silver. Telling them apart takes a magnet, a scale, and about ten minutes.
How to identify itWhat it is worth
Melt value is arithmetic, not opinion: weight, purity, spot price. Once you can do that sum, an offer stops being a mystery and becomes a percentage.
Work out the valueWho pays fairly
Pawn shops, local coin dealers, mail-in buyers and refiners all pay differently, and the gap between the best and worst offer on the same lot is not small.
Compare the buyers
The one number that matters
Every offer you receive is a percentage of the metal's melt value. Buyers rarely put it that way, because saying "we pay 70 percent" invites the question of who pays 85. But that is what an offer is, and once you know your melt value you can convert any quote into that percentage in a few seconds.
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Weigh it in troy ounces
Not grams, and definitely not the postal scale's pounds. One troy ounce is 31.1 grams. Silver is priced per troy ounce everywhere in the trade, so working in anything else guarantees confusion.
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Multiply by the purity
Sterling is 92.5 percent silver. United States coins dated 1964 and earlier are 90 percent. Plate is zero for these purposes, whatever it weighs. That gives you the actual silver content.
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Multiply by spot
The spot price is public and moves all day. Silver content times spot is your melt value - the theoretical maximum, before anybody's margin.
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Divide the offer by that number
An offer of 620 dollars against a melt value of 800 is 77.5 percent. Now you have something to compare, and something to negotiate with.
Why the offer is worse when the market is moving
This is the part nobody explains, and it is the single most common reason people believe they were cheated when they were not.
When a buyer quotes you a price, they are committing to a number for metal that will not physically reach them for several days. In that window the market can move against them, and on a volatile week it can move a long way. So they widen the spread - the gap between what they pay you and what they can sell for - to cover that risk. The quote gets worse, and from where you are standing it looks like greed.
Sometimes it is. Often it is arithmetic. The practical consequence is the same either way: if silver is swinging hard this week and you are not in a hurry, waiting for a calmer stretch is worth real money. That is advice a buyer has no incentive to give you.
What this site will never do
No fear pitches about currency collapse, no invented urgency, no "prices may never be this high again". If a page here tells you to wait, it is because waiting is better for you. Where a link earns a commission, it is labeled, and the ranking method is written down so you can check it against what you find.
The four questions that decide every silver sale
Selling silver well is not complicated, but it is easy to get wrong by skipping a step. Almost everything that goes wrong comes down to a seller answering one of these four questions with a guess instead of a fact.
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Is it actually silver?
The most expensive mistake in the trade runs in both directions: people scrap plate believing it is sterling, and people hoard sterling believing it is only plate. A mark and three simple tests settle it before any money is discussed. The identification guide walks through the magnet, the scale and the marks in order.
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How much silver is really in it?
Weight alone tells you nothing. A heavy canteen of electroplate can hold a fraction of a gram of silver, while a light-looking box of coins can hold several ounces. What matters is weight in troy ounces multiplied by purity, and both of those are things you can measure at your kitchen table.
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Is it worth more as an object than as metal?
A signed piece, a complete matched set, an early coin with a scarce date: any of these can be worth several times its melt value to the right buyer. Melting is permanent, so this is the one question you cannot afford to answer with a shrug. When in doubt, get an opinion before anything is weighed for scrap.
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Who is paying the highest honest percentage today?
Every scrap offer is a percentage of melt value, and the spread between the best and worst offer on the same lot is routinely large. Three quotes cost an afternoon and frequently change the answer by a meaningful amount. The buyers page covers what each kind of buyer typically pays and why.
A worked example, start to finish
Numbers make this concrete. Imagine you have inherited a canteen of sterling flatware. Here is the whole process, with round figures chosen to show the method rather than to predict a price, because the spot price changes every day.
Step one, sort and weigh. You separate the solid pieces from anything marked EPNS or A1, which is plate and has no melt value. You also set the knives aside, because most silver knives have hollow handles filled with pitch or plaster and a steel blade, so only a little of their weight is silver. The solid forks and spoons come to, say, 40 troy ounces on a scale that reads in troy ounces or grams.
Step two, find the silver content. Sterling is 92.5 percent silver, so 40 troy ounces of sterling holds 37 troy ounces of actual silver. That is the number a refiner cares about; the other 7.5 percent is copper and is worth nothing to them.
Step three, find the melt value. You multiply 37 troy ounces by the current spot price, which you can look up for free in seconds. Whatever that figure is, it is your melt value: the theoretical maximum, before any buyer takes a margin.
Step four, turn each offer into a percentage. A buyer quotes you a figure. You divide that figure by your melt value. If the melt value works out to 800 dollars and the offer is 620, that offer is 77.5 percent of melt. Now the quote is no longer a mystery number you either accept or reject; it is a percentage you can compare against the next buyer and against what a fair buyer should pay.
That is the entire skill. Once you can produce a percentage, you have moved from hoping you are being treated fairly to knowing whether you are.
The mistakes that cost the most
After enough years on the buying side, you notice the same few errors turning up again and again. None of them require expertise to avoid. They require only knowing they exist.
Accepting the first offer. The first number a seller hears becomes the anchor for everything after it, even when it is poor. A single second quote breaks the spell, and it is the cheapest insurance available.
Weighing on a kitchen scale in ounces. A troy ounce is heavier than the ounce on a food scale, and mixing the two throws every calculation off by about ten percent. Weigh in grams if in doubt, then divide by 31.1.
Cleaning before selling. Polishing removes a whisker of metal each time and, on anything collectable, strips the patina a buyer is paying for. Never clean coins at all. If a piece is destined for scrap, cleaning changes nothing; if it is not, cleaning can quietly cost you money.
Melting a coin without checking it. Coins are the category where the object most often beats the metal. A scrap buyer has no duty to tell you a dollar is worth ten times its silver, so the check has to come from you. The coins and bars page covers what to look for.
Selling into a panicked market. When the price is swinging hard, buyers widen their spreads to protect themselves, so payouts get worse precisely when the headlines make selling feel urgent. If you are not in a hurry, a calmer week is usually worth real money.
Mixing purities in one bag. A lot is often valued at the rate of its least interesting contents, so tossing sterling, plate, coins and world silver into a single pile invites a buyer to price the whole thing conservatively. Sorting by what a piece actually is, before anyone sees it, is unpaid work that quietly raises your final number.
Treating a photograph as a valuation. No one can price silver from an image, because value comes from weight, purity and today's spot price, and a photo shows none of them. A photograph of a hallmark can confirm what something is; it can never tell you what it is worth. That figure only ever comes from the arithmetic.
Where to start
If you are holding something now and do not know what it is, begin with how to identify it. If you already know what you have, go straight to what it is worth. When you are ready to compare buyers, the where to sell page lays them out. There is no account to make and nothing to send anywhere.